Family in Seoul!

Fastest week in the history of all weeks experienced ever...Tuesday I counted down all day (apologizing to my coworkers) to when Mum, Dad, and Edward would be boarding the plane. Each of my classes would begin with me explaining why my eyes were glued to the clock for the entire time. In my last class I paused the lesson and counted down from 10 to celebrate their departure. The kids were kind enough to humor me and enthusiastically participate in the countdown. That night I don't think I slept at all from excitement! I couldn't wait to have them here and show them around to all the places I love as well as some places I haven't been yet either.

Finally Wednesday came and a new countdown started for the end of my final class at 7:15 when I would full out sprint to the subway and take the hour trip into Insadong, where my family would be staying for the majority of their stay. The area around Insadong has many tourist attractions such as museums, temples, palaces, and shopping areas. A perfect place for my family to entertain themselves as I work all day! I think when I got the text message from Mum saying they were at baggage claim I nearly did cartwheels in the teachers office. My 6 elementary classes took SO long that day. I was almost as bad as my students, I couldn't keep still and I was trying my hardest to pay attention but my mind kept wandering. Maybe I should give them a break now whenever they do that...I'll think about it.

Anywhoo- after my final class, I ran to the subway and willed each train to go faster into Seoul. I brought a book with me to try and make the trip go faster but I found myself rereading the same passage over and over again (sounds like some of my textbooks in college..) At this point I had butterflies in my stomach the size of walruses...with wings...When I finally made it to Anguk station I speed-walked until I arrived through the entrance of their hotel, Somerset Palace. I walked in and saw Mum and Dad with their backs towards me as they were standing facing the front door and I had sneakily arrived through the back door. I ran up and hugged Dad from behind, scaring him slightly. He probably thought there was some strange Korean custom to hug people randomly from behind (No that's not a real one unfortunately) After hugging and kissing and tears we headed to a restaurant nearby to grab a quick bite before they passed out on the table from the jet lag. We had a bit of Korean 101 with how to say "hello", "goodbye" (2 ways), and "thank you". Edward got it down very quickly- he would be fluent in no time.

After dinner we got back to the hotel room, which was absolutely gorgeous! It was all open except for some sliding doors that closed in the bed areas, there was a kitchen, a seating area, and a dining area. So much space! They tried to stay up as long as they could but after a while I could tell that they were fading fast. I was so wired. I could have stayed up forever talking and catching up, but we would have plenty of time over the next few days to do that.

Bunk mate

Unfortunately my school does not really allow for flexible days off so I had to work Thursday and Friday while Mum, Dad, and Edward explored Seoul on their own. Those few days would be some of the longest work days ever, knowing my family was so close but not being able to spend time with them. I apologize to my kids and coworkers if I seemed completely distracted for the entirety of those two days. After Thursday was finished I again took the subway ride into Seoul meeting them for dinner in Insadong. Tonight they would be having their first galbi experience (well second if you include our neighbor, Mrs. Kim's, which was delicious by the way!). Galbi is a traditional Korean meal of meat cooked on a grill at your table surrounded by a table full of different side dishes. We had beef and pork ribs which were perfect! I believe everyone enjoyed the meat. Edward wasn't too excited about the sides, but kimchi isn't for everyone. We also had some bibimbap, another Korean dish you have to try while you're here with rice, meat, egg, and vegetables. Over dinner we talked about their trip to Gyeongbok Palace and the guided tour their participated in there. Every few minutes I had to remind myself that this was actually happening. I was so excited to be able to share Korea with them!

We made our way back to the hotel walking down Insadong street. Most of the shops were closed but it was still a nice walk, just enjoying each other's company. Again, I was still excited at this point so was not very tired, but I have to let them sleep so they can get used to the time difference here. One more trip back to work the next day, and then back to Seoul at which point I would be able to spend the WHOLE weekend with them! This whole trip I was telling myself to appreciate every second of their visit. Make the most of every minute i had with them even if it was waking up at 6 to visit before breakfast and leaving for work. It's not worth it to sleep in if I can get another hour with them!

Friday finished and I flew to Insadong for the final time from work! That night we decided to not walk too far for dinner (as Edward was already fading into sleep mode). We went down to the German restaurant attached to the hotel for some sausages, french fries, and drinks. All very traditional Korean things of course! Just being together that evening and talking about anything and everything made me so happy. Swapping stories about what we have been doing, people we've seen, places we've gone took us late into the evening when we had to get to bed to prepare for a long few days of site seeing and walking!

Champion sleep-eater

Saturday morning after breakfast we caught a taxi to Changuimun gate, an information center for the hike around Seoul's fortress wall. Providing our passport numbers/Alien card numbers/blood of a first born (oh wait, that's me), we entered the secure area where we were instructed to wear name tags as we hiked along the wall guarding the city. They were very strict here with regards to where you could and couldn't go as well as where you could and couldn't take pictures. You could face your camera outside of the fortress wall but any pictures directed inside towards the Blue House (kind of like our White House) were forbidden. The security guards placed regularly along the path had no issue looking at your cameras and telling you which pictures to delete. They were incredibly thorough. As we hiked up the 3,342,495 steps (may be a slight exaggeration), we looked out at the view of Seoul. We did the classic, "Hey look! I can see our hotel from here!" thing, which we actually could! Some of the wall has been renovated for safety reasons, but there were some places where the original stone work remained from historical Korean wars! We saw a tree with bullet holes in it from a North Korean attack in 1968. Of course the South Koreans were victorious in their efforts to protect their country. The tree stands as a reminder of this event.

 

The weather couldn't have been better. It was a bit chilly if you were standing still, lets say guarding an old fortress wall all day for an example. But as for us hikers it was perfect! The hike took us to another gate, Samcheonggak, from where we would begin to make our way down towards a traditional Korean Hanok village, called Bukchon. This area has been preserved with original Korean houses with ornate roof tiles and doors in tiny winding streets. The area is open to tourism, providing many opportunities to participate in traditional Korean crafts, cultural events, and dining experiences. We walked through "oooh-ing" and "aaaah-ing" around each corner. We were stopped by a group of young Korean university students asking us to participate in a charades game of sorts. If you want to learn more about them check out their Facebook page "WABOW" standing for "We Are Building One World" (shameless plug, but there should be pictures of us on the page at some point). They believe in universal body language as a connection between all cultures. We made them laugh by acting out phrases such as "please help!" and "where's the bathroom?". It was a classic hilarious Korean encounter. We got friendship bracelets out of it which was cool! After that we stopped in a small museum where we could paint traditional Korean images on different objects. Mum, Edward, and I opted for coasters. Dad watched as an old woman taught us the technique to get our flowers just right and they turned out beautifully! What better souvenir than something you've made yourself?

 

Leaving Bukchon, we decided to grab some lunch somewhere on the way home. Dad spotted a small restaurant on the corner of a street. While we looked at the menu an old man apparently beckoned him in- I will have to find him someday and thank him! Our lunch was delicious! Mum and Dad had Manduguk which is a brothy soup with dumplings, seaweed, and some other veggies. They said it was one of their favorites this trip! Edward branched out to try Mandu Ramyan (Ramen). His was a bit spicy but he took it like a man and battled through the spice. The fact that he would order it again later on in the trip shows that he enjoyed his as well!

Getting back that evening we had a few hours before we needed to go to the Miso Theater show that I had reserved tickets for. This show combines several traditional Korean arts into one theatrical performance. These arts include drumming, plate spinning, ribbon dancing, fan dancing, opera, and musical instruments. The story line is about a man and woman who fall in love but then are forbidden to meet anymore. The woman is willing to give her life if she cannot be with the one she loves. When she is about to die, he comes to her rescue and they live happily ever after. As much as we tried our best to keep Edward awake for the performance, he was out like a light before the show began despite loud drumming and high, squeaky flutes playing on stage in front of him. I think he woke up later to experience some of the performance! I really enjoyed watching it. The skill involved to put on a show like this was incredible. The traditional instruments playing throughout the show were unique and beautiful! It was wonderful to let my family see all of these artistic performances put together into one excellent show.

Weird flat statues near the theater

Edward with the Miso performers

 Getting back to our hotel we were all pretty wiped as usual, so we would head to bed ready for our next adventures the next day!

Sunday we all woke up a tad stiff (slight understatement). We walked gingerly around the hotel trying to warm up our muscles ready for our day, which would begin with a cable car ride up to Namsan Tower, also known as Seoul Tower. I had been here with Ryan, but we experienced it at night which was such a different feeling than during the day. Both were great in their own ways! The cable car allowed us to see an aerial view of the city, along with the 30 other people packed in their with us. Getting up to the tower we immediately made our way to the observation deck where they have cities of the world posted on the windows so you know where you could see if the world wasn't in fact round. Edward could even write a postcard from the top of the tower and send if from there! Some lucky recipients, who will remain unnamed, should be getting a postcard marked with "The Top of Namsan Tower" soon!

Reppin' London!

Neat shadow of the tower

mailing the letter!

 The lock wall, which I had seen before with Ryan, was even more beautiful during the day time. All of the colorful locks marking couples everlasting love for each other sparkled in the sun, creating a confetti-like backdrop for pictures of other couples around the deck. Of course while we wait for the cable car back down we meet a family from Washington D.C. who has family in Hockessin, Delaware not 10 minutes from our house. Small world. 

After the cable car ride back down the mountain (which would not, in fact, bring us down without the use of breaks like a roller coaster despite what I told Edward) we made our way to Namdaemun Market. This market lines several intersecting streets creating a crowded and busy yet exciting atmosphere. Dad was on a mission to find some of those nifty hiking pants he'd seen during our excursion along the Fortress Wall the previous day. After trying the pants on in the open store right next to the crowds of shoppers, he successfully found a perfect pair. Now he fits right in! We looked at the endless stalls of trinkets, clothing, shoes, and food for about an hour. Edward found some Buddha statues to bring home and they also got to try some gimbap- or a Korean sushi roll. Very different from American sushi, in that it doesn't have any raw fish, and has sweet items such as pickled radish. Edward was not a fan but Mum and Dad enjoyed it!

Dad getting help with the belt

As we walked towards the subway station to meet Tina teacher at the Noryangjin fish market we made a detour to Edward's gate, Sungnyemun. I call it "his gate" because he has shown an interest in it before coming to visit here via projects at school as well as 3D Lego structures. As the gate is under construction, we could not get very close but dad got a few pictures with limited construction vehicles in the background!

Now here comes one of my favorite things we did this WHOLE trip! In
Noryangjin there is an old fish market that I had read about but never made the trip to. This market opens in the wee hours of the morning and stays open late, selling an endless variety of seafood ranging from octopus and squid to clams and other unknown creatures that I was not feeling up to trying. This entire warehouse was packed with rows and rows of booths with tanks full of sea life in different stages of existence...aka some were dead, some were on their last legs (or fins...), and other were swimming around unaware of the fact that they would be dead at some point that day. A bit morbid, yes, but you have to face reality sometimes. Surrounding the booths were restaurants ready to prepare your fish that you purchased from the vendors inside. This is where Tina teacher comes in. While I have no problem practicing my Korean in a calm and welcoming environment, this fish market is pretty loud and crazy with haggling involved. I don't do haggling very well in English let alone Korean. Tina would be there to help us find the fish we wanted, at a reasonable price, and then cooked in the best way. She was excellent! We walked through the vendors until we found someone who had "a good face", which is how she chooses who she will buy something from. She ended up choosing a guy wearing a Phillies baseball hat! Turns out he hates baseball...but that's neither here nor there. 

Octopus anyone?

We decided on some gigantic scallops, a classic flat fish that Tina says everyone eats as sashimi here, and then some octopus for Edward. At the last moment we decided on dead octopus as opposed to the other option where the tentacles are still wiggling around and attempting to escape off your place as you try to grab them with chopsticks. I think this was the best idea. NEXT time we can try that way instead... The food was impeccable. It was fresh (obviously) which made it taste that much better. The bones and other parts of the fish cut for sashimi are used to make a soup with veggies and other goodies. After a near-death experience with a fish bone, I left my soup bowl untouched for the remainder of the meal, instead focusing on scallops and kimchi. By the end of the meal we were sufficiently stuffed. My family loved Tina! Not only was she so helpful, she answered any and all questions from Mum, Dad and, Edward (mainly from Edward). She even got Edward his first Kpop CD! He can get it popular back at Tatnall, maybe start a Kpop club.

Here goes nothing- octopus tentacle

Full of fish we got back to Insadong to walk over to the Buddhist temple nearby to watch the drumming and hitting of the gong that evening. I had watched a similar performance at my temple stay earlier this year but it is always calming and peaceful to listen to. This temple, although small, has the always-present beautifully painting roofs as well as a prayer building with three giant Buddha statues. Set in the middle of a large city, this is a place of peace and serenity for anyone who wishes to experience it. Mum had apparently been woken up by their drumming and gonging (yes it's now a verb) at the 4am service, so she figured she should make it down for one.

We would end our night with a Seoul City bus tour of the Han River at night. The bridges are all lit up and the city lights sparkle as we drive past. About 5 minutes into the journey I turn to see Edward passed out on the back seats of the bus. Sometimes buses have that effect on me too haha. The bus was not very conducive to photographing anything without a techo-club-blurry-neon-lights feel, but I got a few good ones when we came to a stop in traffic or at a light. We also drove passed Seoul Tower again, but it was all lit up bright green. I'm glad they could see it both during the day and at night. As we left the short pitstop at the tower the bus driver was doing a head count and with limited English wanted to know if Edward belonged to us. All he could say was "baby?" and point to the sleeping boy in the back. "Yes, he is our baby" we answered. I'm still convincing myself that he isn't almost as tall as me...It can't happen...

"baby?"

 Monday morning it was time to head to Bucheon so I could show off my super spacious 5-star apartment as well as my school! I was really looking forward for them to see the difference between Insadong and Seoul area to Bucheon with its colorful Korean signs covering every building. I think they were very surprised as we entered the city. We dropped off their bags and made a stop at my place before walking to Little America! On our way to work we had about an hour to kill so I brought them to a place I've been wanting to go to for a while...a dog cafe right across from work. We walked in to the barking of about 9 dogs (I think?) ranging from a teeny-tiny little pug puppy to a HUGE horse-sized one that could eat the puppy for breakfast. Despite the smell of the place it was SO much fun to play with the dogs and get my puppy fix after being away from Henry (and Lucy <3) for so long. Through broken English we learned the dogs' names and enjoyed watching them play before heading to Little America.

My coworkers were so kind and welcoming to my family! I loved having two parts of my life meeting for the first time. I know it comforted my parents knowing who I worked with and the friendly environment I have here. After teaching my kindergarten girls, complete with Mum reading them a book (slightly confusing them with the pronunciation of "can't" and "dance" with her British accent), singing songs, and coloring, Mum and Dad headed out while Edward stayed to help me teach Elementary all day until 7:15. The students loved having him in the class. Some were shy, others were absolutely not, and others acted completely different than normal (aka paying attention and listening, weird!). For some it was the first young foreigner they have seen. This novelty made our conversation and grammar lessons that much more fun. Edward was an excellent teacher and helped so much! I'm sure over the next few weeks they will be constantly asking me when he will return to visit again. Soon I hope!

Mum and Dad came to my last class of the day and participated in a fun role-play activity as well as charades. My students will be talking about this visit for months! Solomon also was able to meet them all. He has a soft spot for Edward, I think, as he hugged him whenever he saw him (a rare occurrence for Koreans as well as Solomon). I'm overall just so excited that my family has finally seen where I spend 95% of my days here and with whom.  

That night we had yet another Korean meal of ShabuShabu which is a hot broth in which you cook meet and veggies. After the meet is finished you put in noodles to cook in the broth. This new restaurant is right down the road from work, and I will definitely be coming back. I was excellent! I think at this point we had had almost every dish I wanted them to try during their visit. If I forget anything, they will just have to come back...

That evening was a bit sad for me knowing the next day they would leave for home, but we spent some time together before I made my way back to my apartment across the street from their hotel. That morning I would go back and spend time with Mum while Dad and Edward wandered to the park to finally throw a ball, which they had been wanting to do the whole trip! Edward wanted to come back to work with me in the morning, so we walked to Little America where he helped me do some fun Easter crafts with my girls. They all got shy and giggly when he came into the room. I think he has some admirers here across the world. Watch out Edward! Mum and Dad then met us for lunch. We had some Bulgogideobap and Edward ordered his ramyan again (see, told you, converted) and we sipped on smoothies. I think there was a reluctance to acknowledge the upcoming departure. At least there definitely was on my side. We stopped to pick up a notebook for Edward to keep all his ticket stubs and pictures from his trip and then they dropped me back at work. Teary eyed and blubbery I hugged them for as long as I could to remember the feeling until I'll get to do it again! 

Overall, the trip was incredible. They did a lot independently which they loved and we did a lot together, all resulting in a busy yet amazing adventure! I hope they have an easy journey back. They are about 4 hours into their long flight now, probably watching movies or playing games from Beth's mysterious flight survival pack she created for Edward to keep him occupied. I have to say I was a bit down the rest of the day and I my coworkers definitely noticed it. I will cheer up I promise! It's just hard to say goodbye again after waiting SO long in anticipation of their trip. I got so excited to have them here and I feel like I blinked and now they are gone. But I will keep these memories with me and look forward to the next time we will reunite somewhere in the future!

Now it's time to prepare for more excursions as the weather warms up. At the moment I have a cherry blossom bike trip planned, which should be gorgeous. We have several field trips and song contests at school too, so keep your eye out for future posts! xoxo

Korean word of the post:
나는 나의 가족을 사랑 해요 (naneun naweh gajongeul saranghayo)
I love my family <3