The Danforths Do London

While Bruce and I stayed with his sister, Yun, her husband, Bob, and their family in Wisconsin this past Christmas, we put the idea out of one last hoorah trip for them before the 3rd baby comes (soon!). Unsure if it would actually come to fruition or not, I still talked with Grandma in Essex about the possibility of us all staying out there with her and Chris to get the full "English countryside" experience. Turns out, Yun and Bob were willing to take us up on the offer and the planning began! With Bob getting special treatment with regards to flying, this made the trip much less expensive than us commoners wishing to take part in a European weekend. Flying first class, they arrived in London Heathrow on Thursday morning and checked into the Holiday Express Inn in Ealing. Coming East to West tends to be more difficult when it comes to jet-lag so after a little exploring for dinner, they called it an early night and waited for Bruce and I to arrive to start the full-on tourism. Bruce and I took the late flight out of Frankfurt Hahn with Ryanair (expect about an hour delay if you ever take this flight...). Grandma and Chris expressed some concerns about us using public transportation to get to Ealing from Stansted Airport, so the hotel very kindly booked us a taxi from the terminal straight to their door, turning out to be about the same cost as a train anyway but without the hassle. And as we took off late and arrived to a significant line in customs (well...for Bruce at least), we would have missed the last train into London anyway! Our taxi driver was waiting there patiently with a sign for "Laura & Bruce" and we made it to Ealing by about 1:30. Bob was awake (Wisconsin Time) and there to greet us in the lobby as we stumbled into bed to get ready for the next few days.

The next morning we Ubered (Germany really needs to get this service out here...) over to the breakfast spot that Bruce had found through his usual foodie-related research. "Caravan Kings Cross" is located a short walk away from Camden Lock in an old granary building. With a small but delicious breakfast menu, we spent the morning catching up and talking about the plans for the rest of the weekend.

From breakfast we followed Grand Union Tow Path along the creek for a brisk, but enjoyable walk towards Camden Town. Last time we went there with Chris and Tom, but only had about an hour before we were whisked off for the Harry Potter tour (aaah fond memories). This time we wanted to spend more time there to explore and get lost in the little nooks and crannies that fill the place.

Here we tried a Peanut Butter and Jelly Vegan cookie, tasted pretty good despite "someone's" reservations about trying it!

 "Cereal Killer Cafe"

So many combinations of cereals, milk, toppings, and more!!

As our resident cereal connoisseur, Bruce naturally needed to taste test this place. He gave it two thumbs up! (Sorry Ryan). For those of you who haven't visited Camden Lock, definitely add it to your schedule during your next London trip! There are endless booths and stores with clothes, jewelry, other homemade goods, bookstores, and of course, food! You could walk around for a while and see new things every time you go. I think Bruce and Bob had their eyes on a maroon leather suit and tie set...

From Camden we took another uber into the jewelry center of London, Hatton Garden. Our main goal was to find a place that would resize my engagement ring quickly and relatively cheaply. We found a place that would do it for about 70£, but in 8-10 days. Another could do it next day, but it was also about 70£. We nixed the idea and went on our way to the restaurant St. John, where Bruce wanted Yun and Bob to try his favorite dish, roasted bone marrow. This restaurant is a small place near Farringdon Station. Their menu changes depending on what is good that day (fish, veggies, etc.), but the bone marrow is one of their specialties. Still rather full from breakfast, the rest of us ordered small dishes. My snail and artichoke soup was delicious (tasted much better than it sounds I promise!). I didn't take foodie pictures in this place, because actually they have signs around the building asking you to put your phones away. I think Bruce broke this rule and took some of his dish though!

Sufficiently stuffed (not that we weren't before) we decided to walk off some of the food by getting to Covent Garden by foot. On our way there we found a sign that advertised "Bounce: Ping Pong bar". As someone who has visited Thailand, I was wary (those of you who've been there as well will know what I'm talking about), but as we walked inside we realized that this bar was actually for the sport of ping pong, full of tables and people enjoying themselves while chasing the little white pingpong balls everywhere. Unfortunately we would have had to book a table in advance, so there wasn't space for us to grab a game or two. We now know what is on our list for the next London visit though!

When we reach the Covent Garden area, we sneak into the Lululemon shop there to give a HUGE squeeze to my love, Lysianne, who I wish I could see more! Even though that was the only time we had together this trip, it was lovely to see her and chat, even just for a minute! xoxo

Covent Garden is a fun area with shops and restaurants, and often a street performer or two. This time there was a group of about 4 or 5 people playing classical music to passersby. We walked around a bit to show Yun and Bob the area before walking further into the tourist area, through Picadilly, and into Soho. Throughout these areas this weekend the Lumiere London event was going on! This is a huge light festival that sets up shows, displays, and incredible light fixtures between, on, and above the buildings of downtown London. We passed by a small park filled with giant lit up flowers and plants, HUGE floating LED light fish swimming above the street and a beautiful floating orb of light catching the attention of all who walked below it.

As you can see, it got pretty crowded. That area usually is a bit of a traffic jam, but this event definitely increased the usual number of people. Our plan was to hit up our favorite Indian restaurant in Soho for dinner (we went to the sister restaurant twice while we stayed in Shoreditch). We called and were told that reservations for groups under 6 were impossible, but this tended to be the "less busy" branch, so we could try our luck. Showing up, the door was clear! Shocked we walked up but were soon stopped and showed the line of 100+ people waiting in the cold to get inside. The wait looked like it would be over an hour. After walking all day, and being 6 months pregnant, AND having jetlag, Yun was about done. We decided to pop them in an uber back to Ealing, while Bruce and I met up with our friend Andre as we wandered the streets looking for anywhere with less than an hour wait to eat. 

We ran into a Burger place without a stream of hungry people waiting outside the door and heard that we would have a 15 minute wait. DONE! Jumping into the pub across the street to keep warm, we waited and caught up before getting a table and enjoying dinner together. They had a great falafel burger and several other vegetarian options!

I'm blanking on the name of the restaurant, but maybe Andre or Bruce will remember it and let me know so I can put the link here. The staff was super friendly and it was a great environment! After that we were definitely ready to head back to the hotel and get a good nights rest before the next day of walking.

For breakfast the next day I found a diner that served a "real English Breakfast" of baked beans, egg, baked tomato, sausages, and toast. I think Bob was happy with his! From there we took the tube into London and got out at Westminster Abby to walk around the park by Buckingham Palace. Unfortunately we arrived just as the changing of the guard ceremony was finishing, but we still got a good look at the gates and park surrounding the palace! That'll be on Yun and Bob's list for their next trip.

One museum Bob really wanted to check out was Churchill's Bunker. Actually made from the bunkers used there during the war, we are led through the small corridors via audio tour. For the limited space of the museum, it does a great job at setting out the information visually and logically. One area is full of interactive displays and "please touch" activities. I love these kinds of museums! Great for kids and adults who want to learn a bit more about this time in history. 

A touch screen display that expands and allows you to look at old documents/pictures/etc. from whatever date you choose

From the museum, we walk towards Westminster and Big Ben. We took the obligatory photo with the red telephone booth of course!

Unfortunately, Westminster was closed for tourists, but we got a good look from outside and headed to our afternoon tea reservation at the "Muffin Man's Tea Shop" in Kensington. In a fancier area of London, the Muffin Man is located in a super nice neighborhood on a corner. Walking in you're welcomed by a display of cookies and cakes of the day, before sitting at a small table and given tea pots, english muffins, and whatever cakes you would like to try!

Chatting about the day and watching several super nice cars try and parallel park across the street, we enjoyed the early evening sipping our tea and eating sweets. We then tried to decide what to do for dinner, because that seems to be all we can talk and think about (oops). First, we passed the natural history museum on our way to tea, so we quickly paid, jumped into another uber and ran to the entrance right before they stop letting people enter (5:30). The inside of the museum is worth an exhibit of its own. With super high ceilings and displays lining the entrance we made our way through as many areas as we could before they started shutting off the lights (which they did...)

a sloth, apparently.

jewels and precious stones exhibit (pretty sure my ring belonged in the diamond area)

After being graciously led out of the museum at closing time, we walked over to an area nearby that might have a bar to hang out in before dinner reservations at an indian place Bruce had found. The boys hung out at "Churchill Arms" bar, while Yun and I walked down to TKMaxx to find few little gifts for the girls back home. Shopping for little girls is like dressing up a doll! I had fun finding things for Ellie and Emma, and saw cute boy stuff for the future little one.

"Churchill Arms"

The restaurant Bruce found for dinner was called "Malabar", and turned out to be a super delicious meal! I bravely told them to make my veggie curry spicy, and they definitely listened to my request (plus a bit more maybe!). Their Naan was delicious and I think everyone really enjoyed their meal! From there we got back to the hotel ready for the early trip to Chelmsford in the morning.

The train from Liverpool Street Station to Chelmsford is a super easy 40 minute ride with Uncle Chris waiting there for us at the end to take us out to the house. A super different English experience than the city of London, life out with Grandma and Chris is very quiet, but definitely a great relaxing end of a busy trip for Yun and Bob. When we get in, Grandma is preparing her specialty, a roast dinner, for us all to enjoy! I take Yun and Bob on a quick tour of the area, dodging muddy puddles from the recent flooding, but enjoying the green countryside as opposed to busy concrete city. 

Stuffing ourselves with Yorkshire pudding, Grandma's famous potatoes, brussels, broccoli, (and lamb for the carnivores), we spend the next few hours relaxing and digesting. 

Soon after the doorbell rings as family friends arrive for a desert and tea party that Grandma planned to not only celebrate the engagement, but also Bruce's birthday (and Grandma's even though she didn't mention it!). Grandma went completely overboard with cakes, pies, and other treats for the evening. I loved catching up with everyone and especially seeing little Leila who began walking a few days before we arrived!!

Everyone looking at the little one!

As much as I love London, being able to easily get out and spend time with Grandma and Chris is a special treat as we have always been so far away before. The house never seems to change, there's a roaring fire in the fireplace, and dark chocolate digestive biscuits in the fridge <3 

Overall another great (albeit short) visit out to England. Can't wait for the next one!!

I Said Yes! Prague New Years 2016

I know this is a long-awaited post (4 days to be exact), so I'll get straight to it!

December 28th, my best friend in the entire world, the one and only Kaitie Clouston arrived in Ktown to begin what was to be the shortest week in the history of weeks. Naturally, Bruce and I tried to make her as comfortable as possible.

Yes..that's maple syrup...

The first day, we took her out to have some real German cuisine at Spinnrädl where she tried some spätzle and beer. Also, the Christmas market was still up downtown so we wandered around and had her try some glühwein as well! 
I didn't let her rest too much, waking up early the next day to head to Heidelberg with another Bucheon, Korea friend, Angela!

Heidelberg is such a beautiful city, and I LOVE showing it off to people! (So it wont be a surprise when anyone comes to visit...). We wandered around, checked out the castle, saw that our favorite Korean place was closed (threw a fit...just kidding), then met up with Doro and Aaron for some dinner and a few drinks at the market before catching the train back home. 

The next day, December 30th, it was the day of travel! We hopped in the car with Bruce and Ryan to start the journey to our New Years celebration location, Prague! I have to say that this trip was probably the least planned/researched of all my previous trips. I usually have some sort of itinerary for each day with photos, maps, and plan B's. The only things that WERE planned was 1. New Years Eve, because planning anything for a group of 11, especially a holiday, is one of the most difficult things to do the day of. and 2. a Food and drink tour of the city (more on that later!).

When we arrived, we found our apartment, which was a perfect location close to nearly everything in the city. 6 of us would be staying there, which caused it to become the hub of activity and main meeting point for the group. That night we grabbed dinner at a local place around the corner. It was there I realized that being a vegetarian might be interesting. The only dishes served there that didn't include meat were fried cheese and potatoes. So-When in Prague! It didn't taste bad, but I knew it wouldn't be good for the waistline. Kaitie and I decided on an early night that night to prepare for the next day of New Years craziness.

The next day we just planned on exploring the city a bit, including the castle and church on the top of a hill looking over the town. Some of the buildings in the city are so ornate and gorgeous, despite going through some tough times. Others have a super simple, uniform style. 

"Kejdy" and "Braien" with their Starbucks

"Laura stop there for a picture! It looks like Harry Potter!"

Bro Love

"If you come closer, the space behind you gets larger. Move your feet and your body will follow. Don't be worried ladies, I am tied to this contraption."

The church in the castle walls is gorgeous inside, but super crowded so it was difficult to move, let alone take a good photo. Bruce brought out the nice camera for one, but decided against it.

Prague is a super walkable town with tons of stores, bars, and restaurants to look at as you go. The people there are friendly for the most part, barring the Chinese place across the street...(don't ask Ryan).

Dressed to the nines (after making sure we didn't get any Chinese food on our clothes) we walked into town to meet up with the Party Boat Prague pre-gaming party at a club called Coco. We booked this part of the trip a few weeks ago, and I had hoped it would be successful! They guided us from the bar to the boat, where we danced the into the night while floating up and down the river under the bridges. Our large group took over the bottom of the boat, despite everyone upstairs telling us that we were missing the party. We were having our own party enjoying each other's company and taking goofy pictures!

From the boat we were brought to a bus which would take us to the last party of the evening, "Church Club". The bus ride was a party of its own, with people belting out popular tunes ranging from Queen to Taylor Swift. While mostly everyone participated, a few (including the bus driver) weren't overly enthusiastic about the karaoke session. We danced the night away and counted down together as snow fell outside, ending a fabulous evening with amazing people! 

The next day, January 1st, 2016, the group woke up and started planning for the day. Kaitie brought up the Prague Library, which was supposed to be gorgeous, and after some research, turned out to be right across the street from where we would get breakfast that morning (this turns out to be an important piece of information for later). The breakfast was delicious, for anyone traveling to Prague! Check it out- La Bottega di Finestra. 

After eating our full, Kaitie suggests that the girls go and do some shopping while the boys check out the library and book us a tour for our group (another important piece of info, if you're keeping track). So, blissfully unaware of any secretive planning, the girls and I head off to wander around town once more.


We walked to the Jewish quarter and met the boys there after their side adventure to learn that we would have a tour of the library all together at 5:30. Fabulous!
The library, called the Klementinum, is one of the most beautiful libraries in the world (if I do say so myself). Photography is not allowed once you get in, so I'll put one up from the internets--

We get to the library and meet our guide, an elderly man, who began talking to us about the history of the library and what we would be seeing on the tour, including the astrological tower.

As we walk next to the library doors, the lights are off and we are listening to the guide talk about the old clocks that we will see in the room. He turns on the lights as he talks, and as soon as he does he loses the attention of every single one of us on the tour. I was in awe and just how beautiful the room was. Despite half of the books not being there due to the process of digitalization, the room was still magnificent! The globes and clocks, our tour guide said, would soon be online in an interactive 3D format to get a closer look. 

Once he completed his speech about the room, I moved to the back to let some others get a closer look (as I had sprinted to the front to see it first haha). I heard Bruce call me back to "check something out" and wondered what I had missed. When I walked back in the guide is standing there holding a large blue book, which doesn't look as old as the others by hundreds of years. As soon as he says "Hmm...what could this be?...I think it is for you!" I knew what was about to happen. As I take the book, I turn and find Bruce there on one knee waiting for me. Opening the book I see that he had cut out a square in the middle, the perfect size as a ring box. My hands were shaking as I handed them to him, and he opens the box to show me the most beautiful ring. Asking me to marry him, I of course said yes (as you all have probably seen on Facebook). Looking up to see the entire group of friends (and strangers) cheering and crying (Kaitie), I'm not sure if I have ever been so happy in my entire life. Endless hugging and crying and "congratulations" later, we realize we still have the rest of the tour to go! I can honestly tell you all that I have absolutely no idea what the man said for the rest of the tour. If you are interested, you should definitely book one for yourself!

At the top of some very precariously steep stairs, we reach the look out on the top of the tower which overlooks the entire town, lit up for the night. As we walk around we hear our friend call to us saying that there are fireworks, and sure enough, we look out over the city and watch fireworks explode in the sky. Bruce claims he planned this part (I'll give it to him). I couldn't have asked for a more beautiful evening with the man I love and my closest friends there!

[Apologies for the blurry pictures! Flash wasn't allowed...you get the gist though!]

 "She said yes!"

At least the library looks great!

Steadying my hand from the shaking

When we made it back down to street level, Jon and Julie pull out the champagne and we begin the celebrations! How better to celebrate then with an arabic feast for dinner?

How do you one-up a day like that?? I still get butterflies even just thinking about it. A completely wonderful surprise <3

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The next morning, waking up and pinching myself to check that last night actually happened (it did!), we had a relaxing breakfast in before Kaitie, Bruce and I went off to do something that is a top recommendation for when you're in Prague, the Beer Spa. When you go in, you change into a bathing suit (if you want), then get into a large wooden tub, and soak in the hops and warm water. It is apparently supposed to be really good for your skin, nails, and hair. Kaitie and I opted to keep our hair out, because we had the food tour right afterwards. Between the tubs is a beer draft where you can self-serve the local beer, Bernard, into a giant glass.

After 20 minutes soaking in a tub, we move to a small room with heated beds, pop music, and disco lights...we didn't think those things went together either, but oh well! It was a very relaxing afternoon, and after 30 minutes of letting the hops soak into our skin we definitely noticed that it was much smoother! As we left, they gave us a certificate of completion ( to be framed and hung next to my diplomas), and a free beer!

That evening we met as an entire group for the Taste of Prague Food Tour with our tour guide, Jan. He began with a quick, but insightful history lesson about Prague cuisine and its influences, and then we started the tour with a shot. as you do.

Luckily, after the tour, you get an email summarizing the entire tour, where we went, and what we ate! Less work for me--here you go!
"To sum up where we went today:

1. We followed with meatloaf on bread and sausage with mustard on bread at the Nase maso butcher shop."

Jan and his wife do an incredible job at planning for any dietary differences and personal preferences of the group. So I had a little tray of my own! One was a grape salad with goat cheese, and the other was some cheese and egg.

"2. We had beers, Kofola, pork schnitzel or fried cheese with potato salad, Prague ham with horseradish cream or mushroom goulash, at the Lokal pub. "

"3. We continued with wines at the Vinograf wine bar."

4. We went to the Cestr steak house in the old Communist Federal Parliament building. We had beef knuckle with mushrooms, beef golden muscle in goose fat, slow-grilled chicken with truffle stuffing and sauce, potato mash boiled in milk, potato dumplings, carrots, spinach, escargots in mushrooms with Sabayonne mousse, pickled fried carp with dill and shallots, and beer ice-cream! You also had the hard-boiled eggs with dill sauce, eggplant with spinach sauce, zucchini with red pepper and tomato sauce, and the sheep cheese salad."

"5. We finished with Becherovka shots and four Czech sweets: “rakvicka” (sweet “little coffin” with whipped cream), apple strudel, “venecek” (chaux pastry with vanilla cream and sugar glaze) and “laskonka” (two coconut merengues with a rich chocolate ganache filling) at Cafe Savoy. "

We couldn't decide whether we liked that we ended our incredible trip with the tour or whether it would have been better to start the trip with it, because he gave us so many cool ideas and tips! If anyone reads this blog, go to Prague and take the tour!!

That night we said our goodbyes to Jon and Julie, Rachael, and Scott and spent the rest of the evening playing cards before drifting off to sleep in a food coma. I want to thank all of you on the trip who came along and made it that much more special! I couldn't have asked for a better group <3

The next morning, Bruce, Ryan, Kaitie and I took off for home, stopping in Nurnberg for a quick falafel and some Mexican food (weird combo) before getting stuck in a crazy amount of traffic, therefore making us go straight to dinner with Harry, Beate, Tina, Rainer, and the gang! It was a fabulous dinner, but we were definitely zombies (sorry guys!).

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The next day, it was back to work for Bruce, but Kaitie and I still had a day for exploring! I decided we should get one more country checked off her list, and we drove to Wissembourg, France for the day! A quiet but beautiful town we walked around the streets, taking a peak at the pastry shops, cheese stores, and the church, before getting home.

Wedding diet starts tomorrow...

 For Grandad

Kaitie's trip came to an end when the shuttle came for her this morning at 4:20 (oof!). It was such a fast trip, but I'm sooooo glad she made it over here! She made the engagement so special and it was like no time had passed since we were taking over Korea together. I love you so much and hope you get back safely! (Luckily you'll be much more comfortable in BUSINESS CLASS!!).

To my friends and family- I love you all too!! To answer any questions- no, I have no idea where or when the wedding will be haha

Until next time!

German phrase of the post:

"Would you just look at that??""würden Sie nur Blick auf den!"